Face Plans

Above is the face plan I have made for the initial shot of Jess, when she is in a state of rapture and has hands covering various parts of her face. I have kept the makeup to a minimum and kept it to natural tones and shades.

This second face plan depicts the second shot that I have devised. This is when Jess is being tied up and forced to repent for her 'sins'. In this face plan, jess's makeup has been smudged accross her face and her eyeliner and mascara has run, to indicate that she has been crying.

Composition Sketches.

 It can be hard to make out, as the scanning quality was pretty poor, but this is the composition for my final shot. I want it to include Jess and Katie's hands intertwined whilst bible pages and crosses burn in the background, to show the abandonment of the church and the way that the church turns against her life choices.

This sketch is to depict my second shot, where Jess is tied up in the closet after refusing to repent. She has makeup down her face and wears a pained expression whilst pleading with the onlookers for help.

Flaunt Magazine

When looking for Fashion Editorials to inspire me, I stumbled across this fantastic shoot of Leighton Meester for 'Flaunt Magazine'. Photographed with the novel 'Oranges Are Not the Only Fruit' as an inspiration, the seventies inspired shoot graced the cover of Flaunt Magazine in November 2012.

Donning the iconic Vidal Sassoon 'bob', Meester is seen cosying up to another female form. This shot is something that I found extremely interesting, the positioning of the two women and the use of black and white in Post Production has created a heavy and sexual shot. There is a feeling of lust about the shot but the way the model touching Meester is positioned, facing away from the reader creates a sense of mystery.

I was mostly drawn to the lighting of this shot. The over exposed Post Production that has been added to this shot is something that drew my eye. The subtle connotations of religion with the jewellery lying on the floor, crosses strewn across the carpet are something which I feel has been executed very well. This subtle styling and creative composition of the shot are something which I would like to play around with when it comes to storyboarding my three chosen moments/shots.

Marie Claire Turkey

Photographed by Ayten Alpun for Marie Claire Turkey, this collection of images offers the reader an exciting combination of sexuality, seduction, mystery, drama and sin. Models Anna, Viola and Ozlem pose as deeply religious figures. Through the shots it becomes apparent that the characters being portrayed by the models are highly tempted by religious sins. The pictures tell a story of sin and regret  through the use of sweeping gowns, monochromatic colours and luxurious femenine lace.

I was particularly drawn to this shot as it showcases the temptation that Jess experiences when she meets Melanie. The styling of dark, sexual garments and provocative composition of the shot alludes to the theme of sin and presents the homosexual nature of the shot as dark and sinful, yet highly sexual. 

 The makeup in the above shot is exquisite. Again, I was drawn to the pale, luminous skin and the flawless appearance of the face. The eyes are the focal point of this shot. Shaped and shaded with browns and ochres, the eyes burn into the reader and create a dark, mysterious and extremely sexual feel to the shot. The eyes appear to be lined with a dark brown, black which has narrowed the eyes and allowed the fresh blue of the model's iris to pop out.

Kate Moss Fashion Bible

When researching fashion images, I came across the cover spread for 'W Magazine' that Kate Moss had graced, named 'Spring's Fashion Bible'. I was in awe of the composition, the styling and the makeup that had been created for the various looks throughout the shoot. Shot by Steven Klein, W Magazine offer the reader the choice of a saintly or sinful protagonist.

I chose to include these shots as I felt that the simplicity of the makeup was extremely inspiring. I fell in love with the use of blood red lips in the above shot, and the almost sexual nature that this evokes. The dark red juxtaposes the almost virginal white of Kate's skin and teamed with the luxurious black lace, creates a dark and austere shot.

I was drawn to the shot above for the luminous skin that has been created. The face has been flawlessly highlighted to create an angelic and glowing look. I found this extremely inspiring and think that it may be something that I come to consider when creating the makeup looks for my  shoots.

I was particularly drawn to the styling of this shot. The contrast between the connotations to what is universally known as a Nun's attire sand the overtly sexual, PVC material are a styling choice that instantly intrigued me. Perhaps this could be a way of conveying the religious themes of 'Oranges are Not the Only Fruit' whilst also expressing the highly sexual nature of my chosen character, Jess.

Fine Art & Fine Art Photography

When thinking of the themes represented in the novel 'Oranges Are Not The Only Fruit', a section of the brief given to me by Dejan required me to find Fine Art and Fine Art Photography that related to the chosen character. I researched long and hard through books and sites to find the best pieces of work that I felt represented the most important themes of the book to me.

Cook Jenshel Photography

I came across Cook Jenshel whilst searching online. He captures atmosphere and feeling in his portraits and creates beautiful work. I love the use of black and white in the photography as the contrast of the light and dark is heightened through the use of greyscale. The centre of the photograph is an almost angelic figure, lit from the side to create an angelic focal point. The statue can be seen to foreshadow the strong religious upbringing Jess has. The reflection on the water shows that everything is not as it seems as everything is manipulated in the surface of the water. I feel that I can take inspiration from this as it can be used to show the darkness of the novel and the contrast in lighting can convey the struggle of Jess who has to battle her inner self.

 

 

Jane Fulton Photography

I was drawn to the peacefulness of Jane Fulton. The lighting is peaceful and can be seen as 'heavenly' and this series of photographs inspired me because they made me think about the journey that Jess goes through both physically and mentally. The beautiful, simple landscapes could reflect the simplicity with which Jess views life and the purity of her decisions and moral standings throughout the novel.

Hendrickje Stoffels (as the sorrowing virgin) by Rembrandt

1660

Oil on Canvas

 I chose this painting because of the symbol of the lone woman, the sorrowing virgin, and the meaning behind it. I felt that this could be compared to Jess at the beginning of the novel, the innocent, unfulfilled virgin who had no real life experience. The muted colour scheme of the painting could also be compared to the dull and dreary existence Jess has at the beginning of the novel, under her mothers' restraints.

The Birth of Venus by Sandro Boticelli
1482
Oil on Canvas

I chose this portrait because of the classical beauty it represents and the simple purity portrayed by Venus. Venus was the Roman goddess of love, fertility and beauty which are most certainly relevant to the themes represented by the character of Jess throughout the novel.


The Resurrected Christ by Rembrandt
1661
Oil on Canvas

I chose this portrait by Rembrandt because of the austere nature of the picture.The symbolism of Christ throughout the novel is so overwhelmingly prominent and so i felt that this was a perfect portrait to include. The darkness of the portrait can also be related to the darkness of the novel and the suffering that, like Jesus, Jess has to endure. She too is subjected to hatred and suffering but the whole time, her belief for Jesus never wavers. 

Fashion and Popular Culture

The modelling industry exploded during the 1960s. The introduction of new and excitingly different models to the fashion and makeup industry led to a cataclysmic change in the way the 1960swoman presented herself. The early sixties favoured a classic, older woman. One example of this is Jean Shrimpton on the cover of VOGUE. Shown wearing a white Christian Dior hat, Shrimpton has a mature bone structure sporting a shaded pastel blue eye with heavy mascara, large black eyeliner flicks and a red lip.

Lesley Lawson, a young girl from London was to burst into the fashion industry with such force that she would never be forgotten. Twiggy, as she was more popularly known, became the icon of young fashion and the first model to grow into a media personality.The explosion of Twiggy into the British fashion industry was to be the beginning of the young woman as an ideal. With her elfin crop and teenage figure, Twiggy emulated the 1920s garҫonne with her child like and youthful features. Twiggy later became known as the world’s very first international supermodel. 

I felt that Twiggy was so influential to both my project and the fashion of the 1960s that I have embedded a video containing a short piece about the influential model.

music of the 1960s had a large bearing upon fashion and makeup trends. The Beatles, a rock and roll group from Liverpool transformed the look, sound and style for not only their generation, but also of ones that followed. These four men revolutionized the music, fashion and makeup and hair industry of the 1960s in such a dramatic way, it hasn’t been the same since. The Beatles were famous for their matching tailored suits, mop-top haircuts and Cuban heeled boots. The mop-top hairstyle was so popular that the Beatle wig became the hottest novelty since the hula hoop.

Young men and boys all over the world idolised and replicated their fashions. This was an extreme turning point in 1960s fashion as men had never before been seen as fashion icons. The commercialisation of The Beatles’ look became so popular that it changed men’s fashion forever.

Up North

The novel is set in a small town in Yorkshire. Yorkshire is the largest county in the UK and is situated in the North of England. Full of green pastures known as the 'Yorkshire Dales', it has been described as 'Gods Own Country'. This nickname for the country seems to be a lucky coincidence when regarding the themes within the book.

The towns in Yorkshire, particularly the south, made money in the coal mining industry with employment figures in six digits over the decade. Streets were lined with terraced houses and everybody knew everybody's business.

1960's Britain

I have done some research into the time period in which the novel is set.

The 1960's was a decade which changed the world. With so many technological, political and social advances, it is hard to ignore the 60's!

There were significant political changes in Britain. The Conservative Party was voted out for Labour in 1964 after 13 years in office. This was a significant change in the political structure of Britain and one that is evident in Winterson's novel. The novel is set after 1964, yet Jess' mother is a Conservative through and through, even though she is living in a typical, Northern Labour orientated village.

'She was in the white corner and that was that. She hung out the largest sheets on the windiest days. She wanted the Mormons to knock on the door. At election time in a Labour mill town she put a picture of the Conservative candidate in the window. She had never heard of mixed feelings.'

There were advancements in the NHS during the sixties. The first heart transplant was achieved in 1967 which was absolutely cutting edge for the health industry.

Prior to this, 1961 saw the introduction of the Combined Oral Contraceptive Pill in the United Kingdom.Before the pill, women met men and married at an early age, had children and stayed home raising the family. The introduction of the oral contraceptive pill freed the everyday woman. Before this magnificent medical intervention, 1950s Britain was still trying to lose the somewhat Victorian attitudes to sex. Unmarried pregnant women were often ostracised from society or made to give their babies up for adoption. The contraceptive pill was a godsend to British women.  However, the NHS weren’t quite ready to welcome ‘free love’ with open arms. When the pill first arrived, it was only available to married women. It wasn’t until 1967 when the pill was open to other women.

In the 1970's an advertising campaign was sent out showing a man with a rounded, pregnant stomach. The slogan read 'Would you be more careful if it was you that got pregnant?' The contraceptive pill allowed independence on a level that women had never before experience. Ultimately, the pill offered women the empowerment of choice.

Was it this new found freedom in women that could have led to a rebellious generation, and could this be attributed to Jess' straying from her otherwise Victorian lifestyle?

There were other events throughout the sixties which had the world in shock and awe. 1969 saw Neil Armstrong become the first man to walk on the moon. Although a highly disputed topic, at the time this gave the impression that anything was possible. It allowed people to dream. Could this discovery of endless possibilities have effected the decisions which Jess made throughout the novel?

1966 saw one of the most patriotic events in English history when England won the world cup. This was a time of universal mirth and festivities across England and saw a 'coming together' of all classes.

As well as all of this, there were significant technological advancements during the 1960's. The audio cassette was introduced, along with the boost in numbers of Televisions in the home. This saw the introduction of popular shows and channels such as 'BBC2' (1964) and 'Coronation Street' (1960).

BBC Adaptation

In 1990, BBC transformed the novel 'Oranges Are Not The Only Fruit' into a Television Drama series. The series was quite controversial for the time as it breached subjects that had not previously been aired in such a way:

The lovemaking scene between Jess and Melanie sparked rather big debates and although the series did not include all aspects of Winterson's novel, I found it very informative to watch.

 This is a shot taken of Jess with the congregation when they go on a trip to visit a Pastor in another town and do missionary work by the sea. The shot shows Jess as a young child and you can see from the way she is dressed that she has been moulded to look like those in the left hand side of the picture. On the right is Miss Jewsbury, who is slightly different to the others in that she is in a lighter suit, with longer more flowing hair which could be seen to represent her swaying sexual freedom.

This is a still from the beginning of the series when the viewer is first introduced to the congregation. the camera pans around the room revealing an evangelical congregation, shouting and screaming in elation at the Pastors teachings. To me as an atheist, it is hard to believe that anybody could be so ferociously religious and this intrigued me both when reading the novel and watching the series.

Why?

I chose this book because of the underlying themes and the fact that the interesting and often shocking narrative spoke to me.

Themes of lust, betrayal, religion and love run throughout the novel and the issues raised with regards to sexuality are something that interested me. I was also interested in the period in which the book was set, the 1960's.

I am going to look into the period, setting, and all contextual elements of the novel and take it apart in order to begin my creation of three fashion based looks.

Exciting!

Oranges Are Not The Only Fruit - Jeanette Winterson

The book that I have chosen to focus on is 'Oranges Are Not The Only Fruit' written by Jeanette Winterson.

It can be said that the book is an autobiographical journey through Winterson's upbringing in the north of England. Jeanette is adopted as her mother wanted to have a child without intercourse whom she could mould into a servant of God. She is brought up under the strictest of rules and is ferociously mollycoddled by her mother and pressured to behave to the highest expectations of her evangelical church congregation.

Jess begins to realise that she sometimes disagrees with the beliefs and teaching her congregation has pressed upon her. In particular, she disagrees with a sermon about the nature of perfection. A gap begins to form between Jess and the rest of her congregation. As she grows older, she is thinking more and more about romance.

I have chosen 3 points in the narrative to convey through my final shoots. I chose the three moments specifically for their poignancy in the narrative and the themes and motifs behind them. I will use the styling, makeup, hair and composition of the shot to eventually tell a story and convey the emotional, physical and psychological journey of my chosen character.

The first moment I have chosen occurs when Jess is a child.

At the age of seven, Jess falls ill and becomes deaf and dumb. Her mother and the rest of the congregation see it as a 'sign' from God and that she is in a state of rapture. Thankfully another member of the congregation, Miss. Jewsbury, realizes that Jess is in fact ill and needs to be taken to hospital.

I have chosen this part of the narrative as it depicts the ferocity of religion. The church that Jess is a part of is so enthusiastically religious that they choose not to recognize that Jess is in fact in dire need of medical attention.

I felt that this also represented the relationship that Jess has with her adopted mother, as we see that she idolizes Jess for being in a ‘state of rapture’ and parades her as a religious trophy for the congregation to see. This relates back to the fact that Jess’s mother adopted her and treats her as her project to develop into a highly religious missionary.

The intervention of Miss. Jewsbury can be seen to foreshadow Jess’s realization of her sexuality later on in the narrative, as she will eventually have sexual relations with Miss. Jewsbury, the person who has taken care of her and put an end to her suffering, thus setting her free.

When brainstorming this idea, I visualized a shot where a young Jess is sat on a chair in the middle of the shot, with hands surrounding her, touching her face and holding open bibles and rosary beads to symbolize the heavy influence religion has in shaping Jess into the person she becomes.

The second moment I have chosen comes later in the narrative.

I have chosen to depict is the moment when Jess has had her first love affair with Melanie, a girl who works on the fish counter in the local town. She first spots Melanie when she is out with her mother and cannot take her eyes off her. It is here that the reader first realizes that Jess may not be heterosexual. Jess eventually confesses to her mother how she is in love with Melanie. Her mother is disgusted and rushes her to church where the Pastor makes a spectacle of the two girls and Melanie intantly repents.

When Jess refuses to repent, it becomes apparent that the congregation believe that Jess’s lesbian tendancies are present because she has the devil inside her. At her house, a select few members of the congregation, led by the Pastor and Jess’s mother attempt to exorcise the demons from her spirit by physically restraining her for fourteen hours. When she will not repent, they lock her in a cupboard for 36 hours without food or water. Jess cannot understand what is wrong about her loving Melanie but eventually pretends to repent to keep the peace with her mother and the congregation.

I chose this moment in the narrative because of the suffering that Jess has to endure, purely for her lifestyle choice. I felt that this was a significant point in the narrative, which leads on from my first choice as it shows what religious emotional and physical turmoil Jess is put under when she realizes that she is Homosexual.

When initially visualizing this shoot, I saw Jess alone in a small, dark, distressed environment that mirrors the emotional torment she is experiencing. I want to depict her looking worn down, and confused and convey the journey that she has experienced emotionally and physically up until this point in the narrative.

The third point in the narrative I have chosen to use is toward the end of the novel.

After repenting, Jess becomes deeply involved in the church again. She begins to fulfill her mother’s dreams of becoming a missionary by teaching a Sunday school. It is here that she meets Katy, a convert who goes on to become her second lover. They are eventually caught and the church strips her from all her duties, her mother disowns her and the congregation shuns her. Eventually, she moves away from the small town to the city and only returns once at the very end of the novel.

I chose this particular part of the narrative, as this is when Jess finds herself and her independence. Being shunned from the church sets her free and gives her the independence she has always craved. This shows the end of her journey as she is free to be the person she has always been reprimanded for wanting to be.

When thinking about how to represent this idea, I saw a shot of Jess walking away from the camera, down a cobbled street holding what would appear to be Katy’s hand. Katy is out of shot. Jess is looking over her shoulder and for the first time, the viewer can see a small smile over Jess’s face for the first time and it shows her journey of maturity and how the experiences she has gone through have molded her into the person she is at the end of the novel.

Interpreting Narrative

I've been umming and arring for a few weeks now and have got plenty of research under my bet but am yet to document any of it. So I have taken the plunge and started this blog!

I have undertaken an optional module at university called 'Interpreting Narrative' which requires each student to read a book and develop three fashion shots documenting the psychological and emotional development of their chosen character.

I have chosen to focus on the book 'Oranges Are Not The Only Fruit' and I will be using this blog to document the development and the journey throughout the unit.

I'm excited to get started as I've read the book and fell in love with it!